Tip of the iceberg

The trip to Rothenburg ob der Tauber proved to be a bonanza for penguin ornaments, but that’s only the first half of the story. On the drive back to Prague, we went a little out of our way to visit another medieval city. Regensburg, while not preserved in the same way as Rothenburg, offers a lot of worthy historical features, including beautiful views along the Danube and the gothic Cathedral of St. Peter. It was late morning when we arrived, just in time for a pipe organ recital at the church, not a shabby way to take a break in the middle of a long drive. After the concert, we sat at a café across the plaza for a leisurely glass of wine or two. While my friend José finished his wine, I decided to take a look at the shops in the narrow streets behind us, just to see what might be there. It didn’t look promising, but I went down one more alley and found a little store filled with trinkets, some that looked like Christmas tree ornaments. I ducked through the small door and right behind me followed a short woman.

“Guten Tag,” she said.

“Hello,” I replied.

“Where are you from?” she asked me.

“United States.”

“Probably just looking, eh?” she half-asked and half spoke under her breath.

“Well, I see what I want.” I was pointing above her cash register, because at that moment I spotted this glass penguin ornament. My shopping mission was accomplished, or so I thought. Then the floodgates opened.

Glass penguin on a clear circle

Acquired: July 1, 2009, Regensburger-Tändlerei, Regensburg, Germany

Number: 0658

Size: 3 inches diameter

Price: 9.80 euros

An old friend

Maybe my favorite find at Käthe Wohlfahrt’s in Rothenburg ob der Tauber is the wood pullstring penguin on the right. When I saw it at the store I recognized an old friend that I had bought about 25 years before at the United Nations gift shop in New York. This might be the only time I intentionally bought a duplicate of an ornament that I already owned. Later that year, when I began to unpack the ornaments and set up the tree, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the new pullstring ornament was different in a number of ways. Despite the orange feet and some of the painted details, I still think of the new penguin as a duplicate of the old one.

Famo wood pullstring penguin, made in Austria

Acquired: 1980s, United Nations gift shop, New York

Number: 0039

Size: 5.25 inches tall

Wood pullstring penguin

Acquired: June 30, 2009, Käthe Wohlfart, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Number: 0626

Size: 5.25 inches tall

Price: 12.95 euros

Crystal clear

I had collected a basket full of penguin ornaments at Käthe Wohlfahrt’s in Rothenburg ob der Tauber and found this last one right before I got to the checkout counter. It’s unlike the other ornaments I bought that day, and actually unlike any other in the collection. It’s clear blown glass so it captures light and reflections in fascinating ways.

Clear blown glass penguin

Acquired: June 30, 2009, Käthe Wohlfahrt, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Number: 0641

Size: 3.75 inches tall

Price: 3.50 euros

Clip art

I was happy to find this penguin, the only clip-on ornament in my collection. I guess the clip-on is usually reserved for flying birds that perch on tree branches, not for their flightless friends from the south.

Painted clip-on glass adelie penguin

Acquired: June 30, 2009, Käthe Wohlfahrt, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Number: 0640

Size: 3.25 inches tall

Price: 3.50 euros

Golden boy

A few of the ornaments I found at Käthe Wohlfahrt’s in Rothenburg ob der Tauber were medium sized, like this big-headed molded glass penguin. It takes a front and back shot to show it in all its gold, glittery glory.

Molded glass penguin with heavy gold glitter trim on Santa hat

Acquired: June 30, 2009, Käthe Wohlfahrt, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Number: 0627

Size: 3.5 inches tall

Price: 6.95 euros

Small wonders

A running theme at Käthe Wohlfahrt seemed to be tiny ornaments. This came in handy, as you’ll find out later, when it came time to pack for the trip home from Prague. All of these little penguins were on display throughout the store and organized by style in baskets and pigeonholes. I had to check each room to be sure I had all the penguins. I even overdid it and wound up with a couple of tiny figurines that turned out not to be ornaments. Oh, well, they make a nice accent on the breakfast counter.

Acquired: June 30, 2009, Käthe Wohlfahrt, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Tiny stepping penguin

Number: 0631

Size: 1 inch tall

Price: 1 euro

Four flattish skier, parents with chick, and holding candy cane

Number: 0632 0633 0644 0638

Size: 1.75 inches tall

Price: 2 euros each, top penguin 2.95 eruos (unexplained difference)

Three with tree, wreath and trowel

Number: 0635 0636 0637

Size: 1.5 inches tall

Price: 1.85 euros each

Three tiny molded glass with skis, present and tree

Number: 0642 0643 0644

Size: 2.25 inches tall

Price: 3.95 euros

Puffy blown glass penguin

Number: 0645

Size: 1.5 inches tall

Price: 4.50 euros

Old World charm

Sometimes the penguins find me. On a side trip to Bavaria from Prague a couple of years ago, I found myself on the way to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a restored walled medieval city that attracts tourists from around the world. After booking a hotel online, I did a search for Christmas shops and came across Käthe Wohlfahrt’s, a legendary store that specializes in traditional German ornaments. It turned out to be next door to the hotel. Käthe Wohlfahrt is more than a Christmas shop. It’s like a Christmas museum where you can shop as you admire the exhibits. One of their trademarks seems to b a penguin pulling a gift-laden sled carrying a Christmas tree, of which I have several examples.

Acquired: June 30, 2009, Käthe Wohlfahrt, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Glass sled puller

Number: 0639

Size: 3.5 inches tall

Price: 16.50 Euros

Wood sled pullers

Number: 0628 0629 0630

Size: 2.75 inches tall

Price: 11.95 Euros each (10.95 for blue ornament)